Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup

Serial Number Lookup Model
Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup

Mamiya c330 serial numbers. Activation Code: Serial Number: Unlock Code: IMPORTANT! If the activation code or serial key does not fit, download and generate new. [MORE MAMIYA C330 INFO I NEED TO SORT: serial numbers, Seiko shutter is mechanical and very quiet. Seiko lens history Lens cases: Lens caps ] Focusing. Mamiya C330 Professional S with 80mm S type lens with blue mark. PC SYNC is working. Body has its normal tear and a wear. Lens has dust specs. Visual inspection reveals no fungus or haze. Film advance and spacing is accurate. Built in the ’70s to compete with Rollei cameras, the Japanese Mamiya C330 camera includes interchangeable lenses, a feature that not all TLR cameras have, and photographers can attach different viewfinders for a customized experience.

Or my wife will really be pissed at me! Fortunately I've got the C330 and the Yashica so I can keep shooting medium format film. When fall in New England hits, I intend to catch it on Medium format using the Mamiya C330 6x6. I had a 645E and liked it.

You can tell that yours is a C330 because on the front of the camera it says: 'C330 f' If you like to use it handheld, I would heartily recommend one of the left hand trigger grips designed to fit the C330 and the RB67. The old style left hand trigger grips designed for the original M645 look like they will fit, but the trigger linkage doesn't really work with the C330. The other two accessories you might consider are a paramender and a prism finder.

Contents • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Lenses and Shutters The was manufactured in a wide range of lenses and shutters. That holds particularly true for the period, when prospective buyers could even bring in their own shutters and lenses to be fitted.

There is a Moss growing on a tree branch, shot using the close focusing capability of the C330. You can also see. Horizontal guide that drops out of the top of the finder, which gets lower in the frame as you focus closer and closer. This guide shows where you should align the top of your frame. It works well as a guide, but if you are shooting handheld or on a tripod at an angle, raising the camera to align the top of your image to the guide could easily knock your subject out of focus. Before doing this, the parallax correction dial (a ring along the outside of the Lock/Unlock lens changing dial) should be set to the focal length of the lens you are currently using. The same horizontal guide also acts as a needle that points to a series of exposure compensation values along the left side of the finder, ranging from '1.5' to '3'.

The paramender helps to bridge that gap once composition is complete. The red marker in the viewing screen shows where the top of the frame lies whilst you compose the shot. This Mamiya paramender 1 has had a hard life. The no.1 paramender is not as smooth to operate as the no.2. You have to rotate the knurled knob to raise and lower the camera. [It’ll be easier to see how it works when I put some images up with the camera and tripod in place. ] CdS Magnifying H ood provides through the lens spot metering and also a larger image in the viewfinder.

Metal works well for me as I tend to succeed in showing the interplay of light bouncing off the subject. To this end, I gathered up four cameras, four rolls of Kodak TMax100 film, Pentax 1 degree spot meter, a Star-D tripod, shutter release cable, and headed off to the Brooklyn Roundhouse. The Brooklyn Roundhouse plays home to three large steam locomotives, and an ever growing collection of diesel electric engines. Doyle McCormick is well known in these parts for gathering up old and discarded engines, rebuilding them, and pressing them back into limited service. Many of his toys are found resting around the outside of the roundhouse. Included is his F7 that was painted in Great Northern livery.

When the front part of the case is removed the tripod mount can be used with the case still on the body. There is also a soft leather case (pouch), a compartment case and a Mamiya aluminium custom case. [Things to do: Mamiya Manual and other printed literature, will scan some of this stuff and put it on the blogWrite about Balsam defects and Lens mould] > Light tight seals decay over time They should be cleaned, and is relatively easily replaced at most independent camera shops.

One was a mint Rolleiflex 3.5F Model 3 with a serial number 2,2xx,xxx. Another Rolleiflex missed the test too. It is a Model 1 or 2 (depending upon who’s serial number list you refer to) “T”. Its serial number is 2,19x,xxx and is in like new condition.

Note that the lens and shutter combinations have been arranged alphabetically, not chronologically. Anastigmat 7.5cm f/3.5 in MSU-TOKYO NEW HIT shutter Special 7.5cm f/3.5 in –TOKIO shutter Special 7.5cm f/3.5 in TYS-II shutter C. 75mm in -Rapid shutter T.S.M.

The straight filmroll path has no right-angle turn and guarantees an absolutely flat film. • The backplate is changeable for single-exposure photography • Dimensions: 122 (w) × 168 (h) × 114 (d) • Weight: 1.7 kg (with standard lens) The C-series cameras are one of the very few cameras with interchangeable lenses, along with the Koni-Omegaflex and Zeiss Contaflex.

() Strut Mechanism Three Struts ( Standard ) Two Struts ( & ) TEXT TEXT TEXT TEXT The Strut Systems of the. Images by Dirk HR Spennemann. () Lettering and Labelling Frame Counter Line Arrow Hollow triangle Hollow broad arrow Filled broad arrow Filled triangle Drop-shaped counter Variations of the frame counter of the. Images by Dirk HR Spennemann.

It has taken me three tries before falling in love with the way Rollei TLRs work. The first two tries left me bland.

Bracketing with transparency film is usual. With time, you can get the metering right first time! Cable release The cable release screws into the chrome shutter release button which protrudes at the bottom of the body. Grip holder: There are at least 4 models including a multi-angle grip. I use one which enables me to release the shutter via the grip.

Thanks for sharing. Anyways, I just wanted to thank you for sharing, and showing your Mamiya camera, a rare sight on the internet today. Seems this camera and its system is long forgotten by gear-heads obsessed with the latest and greatest in digital cameras. May the world of photography bless you for years to come with your C330. Regards, Evans Rousseau. > Film is not dead! > The Mamiya brand name on the back of the leather case Portfolio.

I found myself wondering how vintage Rolleiflex twin lens reflex cameras compared to Hasselblads single lens reflex and Mamiyas highly touted 7-series cameras. I read where Zeiss Planar and Schneider Xenotar optics were “modern”, even by todays standards. As fortune would have it, I currently possess these cameras. And I had a subject that was willing and able to help me explore a few mental musings.

It runs on two 1.5 Volt batteries. (Using lower voltage batteries will give the wrong meter reading.) (Photo to follow).

Great camera choice, Bert. Before you know it you'll be shopping for more lenses.

Serial Number Lookup Model

After all, between film cost and development cost (assuming you're not developing your own) you're probably looking at about $1 per frame, maybe more. The weight isn't all that noticeable for me in day-to-day usage, largely because I'm already accustomed to carrying a fully equipped Canon 5D Mark III, with battery pack and two batteries and a good sized L lens, with me wherever I go. If you're used to walking around with a Rollei 35 or similar compact camera with you, or even a smaller SLR/DSLR, you may find it bulky at first.

There is a two-position dial by your left hand that activates the lens lock. The normal state for this dial is in the LOCK position, which signifies that the lens retaining bar cannot be removed, keeping the lens securely in place. When switched to the UNLOCK mode, the lens retaining bar can be swung out of the way, allowing the lens pair to be removed from the camera.

It is used but in excellent condition with 90 day warranty, I am waiting for my lenses to arrive from Keh so can't quite test it fully just yet. At this juncture, I find the grip a little tricky to get it to work properly, I am also having trouble getting a good feel for the winder on the 645e body. I am testing it with no film in it, (since the lens is not mounted), just an empty spool. The MLU works.

Something you have to get used to it.

C330 with one of the gripholders The Mamiya C330 Professional is a traditional film introduced in the 1970s for the professional and advanced amateur photography markets. This model was 340 grams lighter than the previous model C33, which weighed 2040 grams (with 80 mm lens). The later C330f is an improvement on the C330 and was succeeded by the C330S with further improvements. • Uses and 220 • With the rack and pinion bellows type focusing system, close-up photography is possible without attachments.

Removing the back requires opening the cover half way and sliding the metal hinge release. There are two, one on the lower right hand side base of the body and another plastic downward firing one at the right side of the front standard. They can be locked by sliding a small dial to the L position by the downward release. The one on the base supports a screw in. The tripod socket can accept both 1/4' and 3/8'. C330 left/back image by () C330 Professional F A revised version was released in 1972 as the C330 Professional F aka C330f, it can be identified by a focus-locking lever on the left focus knob. Move this lever towards the front of the body to lock the focus.

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In fact, my first two ever gallery shows were taken with that camera. As a result, I was going to trade up for a RB67 a few months back, but I just couldn't bring myself to part with it. BTW, I'm not sure what the 'E' is for either. I thought I had posted shots here but guess I didn't Here are the first shots off this Mamiya. Be warned, I think my new scanner overdid the tones and over-saturated the color a bit. I've found that disabling that feature and adjusting the tones by hand works better. First shot is Bartons cove in Turners Falls.

The camera feels more stable with the grip. > Mamiya TLR pistol grip Tripod: Needs a decent quality tripod. Does need a rock steady tripod for close-up macro shots. Camera case: > Leather case for Mamiya C330 > Bottom of case with tripod mount and catch > Detail of stitching on leather case The Mamiya leather case is a rarity. This one is black with a nice texture. All the spaces exist for accessing the controls on a C330f. Not sure if this one fits all models.

Mamiya Focusing screens There are seven different types of focusing screen made of acrylic resin. They are: Type A: Matte. Type A2: Matte for wide angle lens. Type B: Rangefinder Spot 4º.

Here is one taken rather late in the evening: Passenger Train The next morning was misty and grey with rain approaching, but I wanted to complete the film. The film came out amazingly well, I think. I don’t know if the shutter speeds are exact, but the film was well exposed, and the images sharp and crispy. Dyrehaven - Springforbi gate Old, Struggling Hawthorn I can recommend trying out some of the old medium-format cameras. In addition to the Pentax 645 system and Pentax 6x7 system I now have two old Zeiss folders from the early 50’ies (6x6 and 6x9) plus this “new” TLR from 1969, and they are all a joy to use. It sharpens your eye, when you instead of a 32 GB memory card have to make do with a 120 film with in this case only 12 images. The 135mm isn’t the sharpest lens of the bunch, but it is a valued portrait lens.

I think there are other step-up rings also. Flash There are two flash synchronisation settings. They are X and M. It is best to leave the marker pointing to X, which is for synching to electronic flash. The flash will synch at any shutter speed. The flash cord fits into the socket on each lens. The flashgun can be attached to the left side of the camera body or to the top of the pistol grip.

Tyt 9000 manual. Knobs and Struts Film Advance Knob Solid, knurled Knob Mushroom-shaped knob Mushroom-shaped knob with film speed Mushroom-shaped knob with film type Variations of the film advance knob of the. Images by Dirk HR Spennemann. () Front Door Release raised button XXX XXX XXXX Variations of the front door release of the. Images by Dirk HR Spennemann. () Shutter Release rounded top dimpled top cable release thred XXXX Variations of the shutter release of the. Images by Dirk HR Spennemann.

It's placed between the tripod head and the camera, and after the photo has been dialed in, focused, and set up exactly as desired in the finder, the Paramender is extended, effectively raising the camera along the film plane by the exact distance between the two lenses. This puts the taking lens in the exact place where the viewing lens was when the shot was set up.

I think part of my problem is just that I shouldn't have bought the second lens that I did, the 65mm f/3.5. It's an excellent lens, but it's too close to the 80mm to make that much of a difference -- I could just back up a few steps and get basically the same effect. Okay, maybe not with landscapes. But you get the idea.

You can buy a step-up ring which converts the 46mm to 49mm. I think there are other step-up rings also. Flash There are two flash synchronisation settings. They are X and M. It is best to leave the marker pointing to X, which is for synching to electronic flash. The flash will synch at any shutter speed.

Serial number ranges for anything Mamiya are difficult to get. There are rumours and unanswered inquiries to Mamiya, but that's about all I was ever able to find. Mamiya is doing great job in publishing the manuals for free but when it comes to providing specialized technical information (ser #, type of coating and so on) they are a wall of silence. They won't even confirm or deny that D330 is in development. If you are going for C220, C220f is probably your best shot.

It is a system camera in the sense that you can switch lenses and viewfinders, and the system includes two wide-angle lenses (55mm and 65mm), two standard lenses (80mm and 105mm) and three tele lenses (135mm, 180mm and 250mm). There are also different viewfinders: straight waistlevel finder, magnifying hood (or chimney) finder, pentaprism finder and a two pentamirror finders (called “porrofinders”) with or without CdS light meter.

I have other much more expensive film and digital cameras but the Mamiya twins lens cameras are classics. The image quality and ease of use are amazing. They’re also incredibly sturdy and will survive being carried in a rucksack for weeks on end without letting you down. They have no batteries to re-charge!! Don’t let the equipment geeks persuade you to buy the latest DSLR or digital rangefinder camera. With a good eye, a lightmeter that you know how to use and a supply of high quality, in-date film, the Mamiya C330 is all the camera most photographers will ever need.

I often produce several variations from one image whether in the darkroom or with Photoshop. > Portrait shot on Mamiya C330 with 80mm lens in available light (mid ’80s). (The scan is a touch on the dark side!) The original portrait was shot on the Mamiya with my 80mm lens (probably f8 or f11), and scanned on a Nikon 8000 Super Coolscan.

Mamiya C330 Serial Number Lookup

I had set the Aperture selection to A, and film speed to 200, for the test. Sometimes I am able to turn the winder a full circle until it stops, the shutter would fire, but then the mirror would not return to its original position for me to test it again.

The cocking arm is the usual problem, since the position and angle of travel varies compared to later versions. Seiko (black) lenses should be fine.

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