Read lorch lathe consumer reviews. See which lorch lathe products are the most popular right now on eBay. See the top lorch lathe keywords people are now using on eBay. German-manufactured Lorch precision lathes. Plain-turning, micro precision, backgeared and screwcutting High-quality german machine tools.

The Wolf Jahn cross slide is reversed! Now I'll just have to work out some sort of pulley system for right sided drive. Is there any practical reason as to why these continental watchmakers had the headstock on the right hand side? Were most continental watchmakers left handed? Yes, Geneva lathe cross slides and Mandrel headstocks are made in both left and right versions.

As previously said, it would pay to grind a couple of facets on opposing sides to reduce metal thickness and weaken it. Being a cast steel bearing race you can actually use a cold chisel to split/shatter it, but you may feel a bit nervous about that You can actually get a screw up nut splitter which would probably crack it as well. Search Engine Optimisation provided by - Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Feedback Buttons provided by - Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Copyright © U-Beaut Enterprises 1999 - 2014.

An example of a very late Lorch--the neatly presented and beautifully finished 'Junior'. This lathe is representative of the Lorch effort to upgrade and better present their range of watchmakers' lathes from the early 1950s onwards. Note the angle table and lapping wheel behind the lathe and the two front-mounted wrist rests. More information about Lorch Lathes is contained in various Manuals, Parts Lists and well-illustrated Sales & Technical Specification Brochures LORCH LATHES email.

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It was also possible for customers to specify their own particular requirements of collet capacity, lever or screw-feed slide rests, screw, lever or capstan-driven tailstock barrels, thread-cutting or thread-chasing equipment, etc., and so create a unique machine for their particular purposes. With such a plethora of models to choose from identifying a particular Lorch model without access to a range of reference resources can be very difficult and, just to confuse matters further, the factory almost never fitted Type or Model name plates to any of their products--although if you look very carefully its sometimes possible to make out a model stamping at the tailstock end of the bed. Although comparatively rare in the UK - these were very expensive machines when new and usually confined to professional users in experimental and similar workshops - they are relatively common in continental Europe. Greatly sought after not only for their inherent mechanical beauty they are also, even today (because of their superior design and quality of construction) a genuinely useful machine. Some have been carried with enthusiast try to collect, as with other similar areas of mechanical interest, the complete accessory range. With such a plethora of models to choose from identifying a particular Lorch model without access to a range of material can be very difficult and, just to confuse matters further, the factory almost never fitted Type or Model name plates to any of their products.

The Lead-screw provides the usual sliding feed together with the screw cutting but the second drive shaft which is a plain shaft but having a full length key-way provides a second sliding feed but also the facing feed; the drive is picked up from the revolving shaft by a worm gear which has a fixed key in its bore then in turn the feed is directed by adjusting the large knurled metal knob to the front of the apron but this feed is very special indeed. It is through a metal to metal cone clutch which is something I've never seen previously and must have been a revelation in its day; I'm unable to confirm what this clutch does but I feel it provides sensitive feed to both sliding and facing; what a useful addition if I'm correct; imagine using a boring bar in a blind hole and the drive disengages automatically as the bar bottoms out? The restoration is proceeding very well and today I've re-installed the mandrel so most of the difficult work is now done apart from adjustments. I've provisionally adjusted the mandrel plain taper bearings but once the lathe us again under power and allowed to warm up I'll fine adjust the bearings. I've bought a new 3/4hp top quality Brook Gryphon motor this being single phase 240V and I'll install all new electrics together with two new flat drive belts; still quite a bit of work to do but what a lovely lathe this Lorch is going to be once completed. The noise proved to be worn out motor and counter-shaft bearings. Kind regards, Col.

Turns out that the channel for the bed is reversed on this one though. I can reverse a lot of my tooling but not the cross slide, which would be pretty indispensable for boring and such.

Is not known, with seemingly identical lathes being badged simultaneously with different labels and stampings, though after WW2 the use of Lorch, Schmidt & Co. Appears to have been abandoned.

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Is not known, with seemingly identical lathes being badged simultaneously with different labels and stampings, though after WW2 the use of Lorch, Schmidt & Co. Appears to have been abandoned. Over the years each of the three names was given to many different types of machine - from tiny watchmakers' lathes (sold individually and in boxed sets) through small and medium-sized plain-turning bench lathes (not dissimilar to the American and similar makes) to larger backgeared and screwcutting models. The latter type, with centre heights from 4 to 6 inches (100 to 150 mm) were often listed in catalogues under the Lorch Schmidt heading. Although the larger lathes evolved steadily to follow changes introduced by other makers - typically more massive castings, larger headstock spindles and improved bearings running with the ability to taker deeper yet more accurate cuts - the smaller lathes had almost finished their development by 1910. Right: a typical Lorch precision plain-turning lathe of the 1930s and 1940s mounted on the maker's underdrive stand and equipped with an 'Overhead' to drive toolpost-mounted high-speed milling and grind A comparison with Lorch lathes made in the first decade of the 20 th century with those produced in the early 1950s will show surprisingly few changes: apart from some cleaning up of details, larger micrometer dials, built-on countershaft units and integrated electrical switch gear, there was simply no need to alter them, so well had the originals been designed and constructed. However, from the early 1950s, a greater effort was put into modernising the design of the watchmakers' lathes - unfortunately (or happily), the result has been a bewildering variety of types and sizes - sometimes designated only by the particular kind of the compound slide rest, or headstock - or combination of such feature.

I used to venture down to his shop across from the Maylands railway station and listen with fascination to stories of his earlier life. We talked about lathes and he talked about the Lorch he used. He held that lathe in the highest regard, second to none. Your brother's LAS is only a whisker smaller than a Schaublin 65 but has a huge advantage, it can screw cut. I'm looking forward to some snap shots.

Nearly all the lorch headstocks ive seen are the other way around though, something is nagging me about one ive seen that's got the big cone on the outboard end. Ill think about it. Hope this helps. Lorch lathes I bigger sizes are few and far between. We have to stick together. It sure looks like your cone pulley and backgear are flipped over backwards.

With a 1400 rpm motor on a separate swing bracket at the back, spindle speeds of: 324, 490, 725, 1040, 1560, 2320 rpm were available. As an option a 2800 rpm motor could be fitted, doubling the speeds, whilst a few examples have been found with 2-speed motors giving twelve speeds in a much more effective range. Today, if the lathe still has its 3-phase motor, a variable-speed phase inverter would be the ideal solution and allow an owner to get the very best from the system. Nearly always found as a toolmaker's model with collets retained in the headstock by a draw bar, a screw-feed compound slide rest, screw-feed tailstock and a hand T-rest, the KD50 could also be supplied - despite its miniature proportions - for production use with lever operation of the collet closer, cross and top slide and tailstock. Lorch KD50 in its standard form with collets retained in the headstock by a draw bar, a screw-feed compound slide rest, screw-feed tailstock and a hand T-rest Lorch KD50 set up with screwcutting to the top slide Despite its tiny proportions the KD50 could also be adapted for production use with lever operation of the collet closer, cross and top slide and tailstock email: Lorch KD50 Miniature Precision Lathe More information about Lorch Lathes is contained in various Manuals, Parts Lists and well-illustrated Sales & Technical Specification Brochures.

Then I'll be able to use them all with the mandrel headstock! The mandrel is from, at least what I though to be, a similar period in time from Lorch, also with a D-bed. Turns out that the channel for the bed is reversed on this one though. I can reverse a lot of my tooling but not the cross slide, which would be pretty indispensable for boring and such. Am I missing something obvious here? I'm certain that the spindle is the right way around, the cone is towards the mandrel plate.

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Your brother's LAS is only a whisker smaller than a Schaublin 65 but has a huge advantage, it can screw cut. I'm looking forward to some snap shots. BTIt looks like a real nice little lathe, I confess to talking him into this one after he passed on a nice Schaublin 102-80 VM because it was too big *sigh* but admittedly it would have been a real ordeal to get it into his workshop, and this little gem is perfect for the kinds of stuff he is making (robots).

Hi, I recently bought this German Lorch Schmidt lathe having been kindly tipped off by a chum that it was for sale locally. I viewed the picture of it on Gumtree and wasn't impressed thinking it looked very rough indeed. However as it was local it was worth a trip out to view it. Sure enough when I saw it amongst lots of other machinery I thought what am I doing here? The seller moved other machines to allow access to it and I started to inspect it more closely. This Lorch had been unused for many years and was incredibly dirty with some rust but as I operated the controls I warmed to it; I couldn't detect any wear which is unusual for such an old lathe; The seller plugged it in and I switched it on to find it very noisy much as expected but in general under all the dirt it appeared to be a decent lathe so I made my best offer but only if it was delivered and this was accepted. When it arrived my lovely wife Bronwyn saw it on the back of the truck and said it looked like a load of rusty scrap which cheered me up no end.

They know what they are looking at and what they will pay. Ditto, except I think that the collet assortment is very small, nowhere near a complete set. The plain metric collets (originally called wire chucks) should number at least 50, and preferably 89, covering a range from.1 mm to 5.0 or 8.0 mm by.1 mm increments. The good sets also have the half sizes from.15 to.95 mm. Those internal gripping step chucks are very rare. Wonder what happened to the milling attachment.

Lathes were available with 6 or 8 mm collets either individually or in boxed sets, these being listed from No. 12 (and possibly higher); however, as boxes were offered separately for owners to mount their own collection of accessories, it is not always possible to categorise them exactly. A typical set would have been the No. 2, an outfit that provided the typical watch repairer with all the basic equipment he needed.

The first Myford was advertised as in excellent unworn condition considering its age but when I finally got around to playing with it I found it was virtually scrap. However not one to give in easily I started to restore both Myford's and even spent £300 on having their beds reground; the beds were then repainted but it slowly occurred to me that however much money and time I spent restoring these they would never ever be quality lathes so I cut my losses and sold both through eBay for a very low £227 the pair; I lost over £1,000 on these Myford's and better doing this than sinking more money and time into them. This Lorch however I inspected before buying and had a fixed price in my head which I would not exceed so this time it made up for my loss on the Myford's and once restored this Lorch will be a much superior lathe and one I'll be keeping. I agree with you Stephen in that I too thought it to be a lovely old lathe when I first saw and inspected it. Bronwyn is used to me buying scrap and restoring it and this applies to arriving home with rough looking sawn hardwood boards then turning these into lovely furniture; I've got a wonderful wife in Bronwyn who never complains whatever scrap I bring home knowing it won't be scrap for long. Thanks vettepicking; yes the colour looks rather fierce in the pictures but this is down to the lighting in the garage and the camera; it is a few shades darker in reality and will brighten the corner of the garage; I wanted to use cream/white RAL 9001 but thought this would be a pain to keep clean especially with lots of lubricating oil around so in this respect the light green is more suitable? Kind regards, Col.

Any pointers? I have two sewing machine motors with pedal control that I'm using at the moment. Rpms can go pretty high on those. A good motor mount system really makes life easier. This one is pretty ugly, but works great. Did not spend time making it look nice because was not sure if the idea would work.

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Now I am using a heavier Lorch countershaft with plain bearings and drip-oilers. The lathe pedestals are screwed down on a board, which in turn is screwed down onto the lathe stand. This allows to quickly change from the WW- to the D-bed lathe, though I am mainly using the WW one. Though the Sherline motor has quite a useful speed range, I find the countershaft indispensable for heavier work.